Perhaps both its greatest gift and liability, Taiwan’s geography might have something to do with the negative perception of the island. Almost all of its 23 million people live tightly packed around half a dozen cities peppered along the west coast, with much of the heavy industry concentrated in just a handful of counties. There is only one major highway route running north to south and by necessity it passes entirely through the most densely populated and industrious regions of the island. The experience is akin to driving the New Jersey Turnpike outside Newark airport, with all the associated sights, smells, and congestion. And the result is usually similar: a completely distorted view of the rest of the country.
Two-thirds of Taiwan is mostly uninhabited national forest, mountain range, or precarious coastline. A bit over 200 miles long and 80 miles wide (about the size of Belgium), there are no less than 265 mountain peaks over 10,000 ft., more than 100 of which can be hiked to summits topping out as high as 13,000 ft. The cities are primarily in the west; as rapidly as the mountain ranges rise they dive just as violently and straight into the sea along the eastern shore. Measurable earthquakes in this region are a daily occurrence and landslides abound. Add an active typhoon season to the mix and it stands to reason that most casual industry visitors rarely get a glimpse of the real Taiwan. And so they are left with the Jersey Turnpike impression of the island, the land beyond quietly swept under the rug just like that ‘Made in Taiwan’ sticker conspicuously placed where it’s least likely to be seen: under your bike frame.
Which is a shame, because the Taiwan that has treated me so well for the past several years is a nation worth being proud of: a robust democracy recently described by Forbes as “a model of freedom and prosperity” with an active, energetic free press; a world-class recycling system; workers’ rights, rule of law, and enforced environmental regulations; a UN Human Development Index equal to that of France; a vibrant, fascinating culture; the safest cities in the world and without exception the friendliest people I have met anywhere. Ever.